Rod Finish Epoxy

blaminack · Billfish Joined: 12 Jul 2009 Posts: 762

OK Here is the deal. I have two blanks that I am working on building. I have bought a drying motor so my finishes are going to be more even and less lumpy bumpy, but I still have a problem. My trouble is that when I apply heat I ALWAYS do damage. Where in the progress do I apply heat? How much? What tool? I have bought an alcohol torch and I got ash from the wick in the finish. I may need to cut off the wraps on the plate seat that I wrapped tonight because I have ruined the finish on them with the heat. Help! I know that Ernie has a propane torch. What do the rest of you use? I am having to do this in my living room so maybe a torch may not be best... what about a butane pencil torch? Just a hair dryer? Heat gun? How much is too much? I am using it to get rid of bubbles. Is that the correct purpose? Am I just missing the point? LOL

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Dow · Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:41 pm Post subject:

Bill, the heat is only needed after it has been rotating a while with the flex coat on it and bubbles start popping up. Once you see bubbles hit them with the torch briefly let it smooth out and let it keep rotating. Blast bubbles as needed.
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Tiderider · Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:28 pm Post subject:

Pretty much what Dow said. If you don't have bubbles you don't need heat. I also use a propane torch, sparingly. If you get the finish too hot there will be millions of bubbles.
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blaminack · Billfish Joined: 12 Jul 2009 Posts: 762

Yep, that is where I am at. I hope that I can get this worked out before moving on to any other wraps. So far I just have one coat on the Plate type seat and on the end of the cork tape. I only messed up the ones on the seat. I am thinking instead of cutting off what I have, that I may wrap another layer of black thread over the wraps on the seat.
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Pier#r · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:06 am Post subject:

A fan nearby (a few feet away) helps get rid of those bubbles too.
I rarely use heat unless there is a big stubborn bubble at the guide end of the wrap.
Even then, just short bursts with a propand torch to get it loosened up.
Ditto what Obie said about the little bubbles appearing if the finish gets too hot.
Direct heat will 'cook' the epoxy in about 0.019 seconds

nb&twil · Billfish Joined: 31 Mar 2007 Posts: 566

i don't know about using that alcohol burner... the easiest thing i've used is just like mentioned above, a propane torch. it's a very direct flame so you can control exactly where your heat is going. just kindof swipe the flame across the bubble so it just hits the rod/finish for .019 seconds. then again if needed.

Ernie & Linda · Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:17 pm Post subject:

The toarch is the way to go Bill . Mixing and brushing introduces all kinds of bubbles big to micro. If properly used you can eliminate most. I keep the toarch at full blast moving in fast tight circles spreading the heat evenly on the finished surfaces(practice on the back of your hand if you burn your self your not doing it right).

I make one pass tip to butt paying attention to one revolution not wanting to over heat one spot. This single pass of heat gets everything flowing bringing more bubbles to the surface waiting to get saped by the next pass. The bubbles that are being removed are at a small scale, almost haze if you would. I do two passes back to back, wait a few minutes then do a third. This usually is enough to introduce all bubbles to the surface. Come by and ill show you what tourch to use and demo for you. Oh a fast motor at 20 rpm helps to keep the finish moving while remaining on the rod.

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